Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Cote d'Ivoire


Picture of the Bascilica on the drive towards it, hidden a little but the overgrown sidewalks.



Over the weekend, took Friday off and Monday was a holiday (randonly it was Africa Union day, but it didn't appear to be a holiday in all African countries at all....only Ghana, maybe more but definitely not Cote d'Ivoire......) so we took the chance to be able to visit Cote d'Ivoire.

Journey there was about 6 hours to the border, about 1 and a half hours through the border...during which time on the Cote d'Ivoire side a man who knew perfect English I know, but refused to speak it, made us have meningitis shots just becasue they weren't recorded in our vaccination books! Strange, as no where does it say its a requirement for entering the country but in this mans office!!

Anyway got through eventually and started trying to remember the French to make our way first to the beach to relax a little and then to Abidjan for the night.

Cote d'Ivoire was a little more difficult to travel round in than Ghana, there didn't seem to be transport coming and going as often, the border was no signs or anything, you just got on whatever vehicle was around as they were all heading for the same town which was more of the transport hub, from there it was more organsied and had signs.

We also had quite a few police/army stops a long the way, although pretty much a formality, they just check everyone has possports or ID and if they don't take some money off them, so its annoying in terms that its slows down the journey, but we never had any problems with them at all.

Made it to the beach, a place called Grand Bassam, which I think is like a resort area for them, however unlike Ghana it was crazily deserted, had really nice hotels with pools and landscaping, deck chairs on the sand, but absolutely no people, so sad they no longer get tourists, but possibly on the weekends its busier, as we were there on a Friday.

We then moved on into Abidjan, as didn't want to get there when it was dark, as didn't know our way around, we were organising to meet someone there who is Ivorian so we had a guide and someone to show us around, just a problem of how to meet as our phones from Ghana didn't work!

So we found a very white person looking bar to wait at and managed to explain to someone eventually that we wanted to borrwo their phone to make a call. So we got picked up and then moved to somewhere to get some food.

And the food here is very very good, had grilled chicken and attieke, grilled chicken was very nice, actually had flavour and wasn't so ridiculously spicy you couldn't taste anything else! Then the attieke you eat with it, is ground cassava which is cooked like cous cous. We also tried some fish, which was really good, actually juicy and not overcooked like it generally is in Ghana.

Next day, we met up with AIESEC people, both Ivorian and other interns who were living in Abidjan, and we visited the beach again, but this one was closer to the city, and similar to places in Ghana where all the rastafarians hang around. The water at the beach was pretty rough so we didn't swim, and you could also see differences from Accra as there were massive ships out in the water coming to and from the harbour, I think the harbour is one of the biggest in the whole of Africa.

Abidjan as a city, the actual city part of the city, is very very developed compared to Ghana, there are big high rise buildings in the business district and wide motorways in the central area.

We also spent some nights in the more Africa looking areas with the same dirt roads etc as come of Accra, but generally there seemed to be many more apartment type buildings than in Accra. Not how how the residential areas in the nicer areas were but probably very nice.

The civil war apparently made some of the French move away, but possibly some have come back now, there are meant to be elections in Novemeber after a long time of waiting, I think ceasefire was about 5 years ago maybe, so they have to elect a President and Prime Minister.

Sunday, we made the trip up to Yamassoukro, which is techincally the capital, and it took about hours by bus, its only 200km, but traffic and checkpoints make it longer.

It is an absolutely insane place, built by the President who wanted his home village to be the capital. It has massive roads which are tree lined and with side walks, and a massive palace which we couldn't see inside, along with the Bascilica which was built as a replica of St Peters, and apparently has the most stained glass in the world or something, but is in literally the middle of nowhere with no people around.

The city is hardly used for anything, there are no embassies or ministries despite it being the capital, and hardly any business from what I could see. Its also fallen into a bit of disrepair, some of the streets are overgrown and with holes in the roads, but you can see it must have been nice once.

The President who built it died in 1993 I think so since then nothing has really been done with it, but they do keep up the upkeep of the Bascilica well. They use it for mass every Sunday, although I don't think they would even begin to fill the space inside, and all the grounds are kept well.

We toured around, and the place is beautiful, there is stained glass everywhere, one of the crosses in the centre is solid gold and weighs like 50kg, each of the seats has its own air conditioning, only ever used once when the Pope came to open it, and the boulevard from the entrance to the gate is 1km long.

Once we finished looking around there, we didn't have much time left as we had to make it on the last bus back to Abidjan, and being in the middle of nowhere pretty much it was ages waiting for a taxi, eventually we managed to get a ride in the back of someones ute, which was good as there were about 10 of us. We visisted the lake outside what I think was the President's palace, and got the guards to get the chickens out to attract the crocodiles, and some of them were huge!

Then, had to get back on the bus, journey was actually quite fast this time, made it back not that late. Got some more food, this time just a street vender type place, who made spaghetti was was good, but not only did they just give you your food, they served it with French bread and gave glasses of water! Something I have never ever had on a street in Ghana. Also had breakfast at the same place in the morning and the omelette was one of the best I'd ever had, if there was such thing as cheese in Africa to out with it, would have been the best ever!

They did have dairy products though and actually had some really nice yoghurt which you could buy in plastic bags, I think the first time I've had yoghurt since I left home!

Monday, we pretty much just spent travelling back home, traffic out of Abidjan took ages, and then crossed the border pretty fats this time, and bus straight back to Accra meant we made it about 8pm, so pretty fast really.

It was a good weekend though, its a nice country, and its a pity they don't get more tourists travelling through, but its definitely not as easy to get around as in Ghana.

Photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090525CoteDIvoire#

Monday, May 11, 2009

A Ghanaian Funeral





















Our (well live within the area we live, so claiming a part of them!) kittens, well some of them anyway, growing bigger now but still very cute!

On Saturday I went to a funeral, we were representing the company as the person who died was one of our outsourced staff.

Was a very interesting experience, the drive to the village took about 4 hours, and it was held over a length of three days, of which we were there for one part, just the service part I think, still not completely sure....

It was held in his home village, and I think run by his church, which was just an enclosed area with chairs, thankfully with shelter from the sun, and people crowding in and sitting wherever, his body was also out so people could walk past. But he died in late March, and the funeral is only just now.

The main part we were there for was a lot of singing and talking in Twi (one of the local languages), also a big round of money donating, and talking about who donated what money and how much. Then they bought the body into the coffin ans took off on procession to the grave. This is where we went elsewhere and went to a room with a lot of elder men type people where they had like a formal greeting process with us, introductions, hand shaking, offering of drinks etc, before they discussed the man's pension or similar, as we were there from work, so I think they needed to sort this out with them, I'm not actually sure still if they were from his family, or just people in the village.

The main difference in the service itself, would have to the hysterical crying of the woman, not just sadness but hysterical hysterical, and for long amounts of time, all while the talking and singing was going on.

I don't have any photos of the funeral of course, cos well not the place where I'm going to get my camera out, but on the way driving back, we stopped off at the signpost which showed us the way to apparently what is the biggest tree in West Africa.........I can't say it was a tourist hotspot.......and the tree, not so big, but nice to know they're trying I suppose!

http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090509TripToFuneralBigTree#

Monday, May 4, 2009

Western Region on a long weekend


So holiday weekend, it was May Day which is apparently a workers holiday thing similar to I suppose when we have Labour Day.

Three day weekend so we went to Western region beaches which are further away but generally much cleaner because there's less population around.

We were quite out nin the middle of nowhere, made it more difficult to get to as taxi drivers could name their price much easier, but we made it eventually, detouring first, pretty much without completly menaing to, through the village of Dixcove where there is a fort/castle although not as big as the main ones in Central region, but still nice and well looked after.

There was even attempts as building a hotel next to it, as can be seen from half finsihed buildings and an empty swimming pool.

The place we ended up however is on a nice empty piece of beach, but still a village was a 20min walk away if we needed cheaper food and water.

The water was quite rough, plenty of waves here but it was nice once you were out past them and good relax, although it was a good bit of exercise swimming in and out through the current.

The place we stayed was pretty laid back, all solar power and rain water etc etc, but I'm pretty sure they did have a generator in case!

We walked down to the village one day to have a look around, and it was placed in the best position possible, on a piece of beach between sea on one side and a nice calm bay on the other side, with a lagoon that went up into a river, just sad that some of it was ruined by the rubbish that was dumped and washed up, plastic bags are really the worst thing ever for this country!

Had a bit of rain Sunday morning, but not for long, so was able to come home without getting wet this time, and as a bonus it made the temperature much cooler for travelling, and the journey was actually made quite fast.

Photo at top is the village at Dixcove, looking out to the sea, more photos at

http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090503DixcoveAkwidaaAndGreenTurtleLodge#