Friday, September 4, 2009

Germany and France

So back now in Germany at Sandra's place in Karlsruhe, and another 3 nights before I flew out of Europe.

They had a plan for our time, generally centred around food, which was all good with me. Dinner once I arrived on the first night. The next day, which was not overly sunny in the end we went to the lake to relax and swim, and that night a BBQ in the park. Monday was the trip to France, Starbourg to be exact, which was like an hours drive away, and then Tuesday making spring rolls to gear up for Asia, and me attempting to pack my bags again....

The lake was nice, seeing as where they are in Germnay is very far from the sea, I think nearest coast was Italy, the lake is filled with people, but had some nice surrounding park area to lie down, the water was a little cool due to it being a cloudy day, but it was refreshing definitely.

That evening we went to the park to BBQ, very nice evening sitting around, although the park wasn't so lit, so you had to cook, eat and pack out before it got dark around 9pm.

For Strasbourg, was nice to see some French again, although English and German generally spoken everywhere, potentially due to Germnay being so close and the place used to be German at least a few times.

It a nice old town centre though, of course the required spiral stairs to walk up and get the view, and outside the old town centre you can see a lot of the European Union buildings.

The target of the day however was to find some flammekucken (tartes flammbes) for dinner, and so at around 5-6pm we headed out of the city centre looking for a smaller village on the way back to Germany to have it.

However, driving through we found absolutely nothing.....whenever something was open it never had what we wanted! Eventually after asking at a pub, we were told places are never really open before 7pm and there was a place down the road from where we were.

So after a drink to pass the time to 7pm, sure enough once we walked back, it was not only open but getting very full! We got our flammekuchen, which is like a very thin pizza base, with bacon and onion and sauce on it, also we got a traditional and a couple varieties with cheese, very tasty, as was the local Alsace rose wine we had with it.

After that we drove back into Germany and the day in France was over, still very cool though that you can drive to another country for a day

Photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090825Strasbourg#

Poland - Krakow and Surrounds

So arrived into Krakow main train station at like 5.30am with kind of reasonable sleep, but my check in at the hostel wasn't until like 12pm. Luckily it wasn't too far a walk with my bag, and I could dump all my stuff and have some breakfast there before heading out to walk around old Krakow town at like 7am.

Was actually really nice as there were not that many people out and it was nice and peaceful, later in the day when all the tourists emerged, the place was packed to the brim, so not the nicest, and as all old town centres are now, pretty much packed with cafes and restaurants.

But I walked around a lot if the inner city, through the Jewish quarter, around and over the river, down to the castle, which is more a wall with other buildings inside, doesn't seem like a castle castle, they do have a cave as an escape point though which was cool.

Also wandered through some churches and climbed more spiral stairs, always plenty of spiral stairs to be found.

The next day I was heading out of the city to visit Auschwitz and the Wieliczka Salt mine.

Auschwitz was very strange, compared to the other concentration camp I have been to in Austria, which was very interesting, actually you could gather the meaning behind it being left for rememberance, Auschwitz was like a strange theme park, there were just so so many people, tour buses, tour guides with specified audio channels for your language, made it strange.

I understand why they need to let in all people who want to see it and so the message of its huge cruelty and mistreatment of people should not be repeated, but it almost made it lose its point.

Birkenau was a big better to get this sense, possibly the bigger more empty space of what once was gave more room to think, but I think it spread the people out also

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Slovakia

And then into Slovakia, where I was to be for six nights, and luckily thanks to my flatmate in Ghana, who is Slovakian, leaving Ghana a couple of weeks before I did, I had someone to show me around the whole time and so my time was very maximised.

Flew into the capital, Bratislava, and I can again see examples of how different New Zealand cities and towns are to other countries. We have a slightly smaller overall population than Slovakia, and yet Auckland is a much larger city, due to our bizarre over urbanisation in one place, and our lack of really any type of large apartment blocks in density, and lack of smaller older town centre.

Which is what this city has, kind of outer suburbs, which are still quite apartmenty, and inner denser apartment areas, along with the old town centre.

Spent the afternoon walking through here, and enjoying nice cold drinks, as for pretty much all my time in Slovakia, I found it very very hot during the day, and freezing at night.

Also interesting to see, after excessive Coke drinking in Ghana with the heat, and it being a pretty commonm cheap drink in NZ as well, still cheaper than milk I assume, that its like premium product here, pretty much as they have their own alternative which initially I found nice but not very sweet, but even their Coke to match has equal levels of unsweetness, so prefered the local alternative.

Also fantastic for the day heatness was the cheapness of ice cream , like 50 cents per scoop, totally awesome, even if Smurf flavour didn't quite live up to expectations, all others were good.

Anyways...next place was to a village where there was a music festival on, of which the main act was the Offspring....where I knew more songs of theirs than I thought I would so all good, also fascinating to look around at all the different types of people turning up to this kind of thing, seeing as some of the other act were Slovakian punk and more I don't think I listened that closely to...

Next day were off again, by bus and train, which was interesting cos like thousands were all trying to leave at the same time by bus from this place, to the home town of my friend, from where we were able to spend like the whole day going around and visiting castles.

First was the 'newer' of the castles, still in ruin, but good enough that they renovated it for people to look through and get a good idea, and its on a place with amazing view of the surrounding area. Including down to the river right below, from which we took a boat trip, you have to look at the photos, as I can't describe the boast well, and the photos probably don't help much, but its just like a flat piece of interlocked wood, with tiny tiny sides, but it worked well enough andwe got through.

Then walked through to the older of the ruined castles, which was in a very good state of ruin, like incredible to try and imagine how it must have once been used, even where a floor possibly could have been!

Next day was the beginning of the more serious walking, and a test as to how well my feet and legs were going to function on hills after the practical flatness of Ghana, and was well tested first up with a nice steep slope to get to a cave, a dry cave which seemed like it didn't go anywhere but couldn't have kept going and going I suppose of you were flexible enough...

Luckily the next ruined castle I didn't have to carry up the backpack, so made my feet a whole lot lighter, so not such a demanding hill, but still another cool ruin, not idea how it would have functioned.

The afternoon, got some quick Slovak culture at this open air museum where they've bought togther the different houses and buildings from all the regions and constructed them again into a mini village, very cute wooden houses.

Then time to move on to the next town, which was my friend's university town, Banska Bystrica

From here the next morning we caught a train to the middle of nowhere-ish but where there was an ice cave, which was very cool, both literally and figuratively......

And this started out our big day of walking, we had to cover like 7 hours to get to the next place where we were to catch a bus, so an interesting test for me, cos even though I walked a lot in Ghana, not so much with hills and only in jandels, hadn't really worn covered shoes, let alone hiking boots in months! There was agony in the feet by the time I finished, but was totally worth it and by the next day my feet had recovered so all good.

The walk went through the Slovak Paradise National park, which has very cool walks where you follow a river bed, which needs ladders and walkways to help you get through the different places such as up the like 50m waterfall, oh and not so much water is coming down while you go up.

At the end of this day we had made it to Poprad and from here the next day we went in the morning to the High Tatras, starting at one lake and walking through to another, very very beautiful, especially so as it was nice summer days. Possibly why there were so many people out around walking the trails also, quite possible we walked past like hundreds on our 2 hours or so journey from lake to lake to train stop.

The afternoon was then castle visiting time, and this one was a lot bigger and a lot more fixed than all the others, they has put back in a lot of floor, and it had helpful audio guides and all, in the gift shops you could even buy African masks from Ghana! Don't ask me why......

After the visit to the castle though it was time to head back to Poprad and say goodbye for me to get on my train towards Poland. Possibly one of the coldest train rides I have ever had, thank god for my sleeping bag, or its possible I may have frozen to death!

And so ended my time in Slovakia, beautiful country and very lucky I could fit in so much in so little time as had someone to show me around and figure out all the buses, trains, times etc.

Photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090820Slovakia#

Apologies cos my photo taking again, never can effectively capture the full picture, but I try.....

Moving on from Ghana - London






























So not in Ghana any longer but will continue to write until I am actually back home. So for my two weeks in Europe which were great after coming from Africa to get back to some more normality I'll split the writing up into places.

First was a day and night in Germany, staying with a friend of mine who was in Ghana and come back to Germany about 4 months ago. I bought her some plaintain chips as a memory and some quality Nigerian movies she could reminise on.

But I was only staying here at this point for a night before moving onto London, and time was occupied with food really, lunch from a bakery with so much nice bread to choose from, together with some camembert, amazing!

But then off to London early morning the next day to try and visit the city more properly than I had before and to stay with Wayne and Emily.

London was pretty much as I remember, packed to the brim with tourists and huge amounts of people everywhere. Also wasn't prepared for the massive amount of chain stores, everywhere you went you saw the same things, practically from block to block, and not every just the international chains, but ones which I didn't realise where chains until I kept seeing the same name everywhere.

But it was good, finally got to see the Changing on the Guard which was not soo exciting, but interesting that all tourists in London practically converge on this one point at this time, and then spent most of the rest of the time walking around parts of the city I hadn't had a chance to before like Covent Garden and Soho.

And spent some time in the British Museum, in the Greek and Egypt sections, which are painfully packed with tourists, and the Africa section, which is pretty much downstairs in a basement and does not have many people going through, but was interesting, had some Ghana stuff, most of it though from Nigeria.

Was here for two nights before my next stop, which was Slovakia.

Ok, was gonna have a few photos but they refuse to upload currently so will post and try again later..

Ok they've come in now, and in random place, but hey, have the British Museum, with Greek vases, and Ghanaian kente, then me outside what I think is Buckingham Palace.... and then some part of the changing of the guards.

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Around Accra, for the last times




































So the photos show, from top...., some of my work people, then its like street views of Accra, one you can even see a train! It runs like once a day and I believe is so slow you can walkk faster, mainly cos people live on the tracks and they're not meant to run them down or anything....


I don;t know how much I've said about it before, possibly a lot....but there are lots and lots of people here, and a great majority of them are always out and about on the streets, a lot selling, some just hanging, others moving around.

This huge volume of people can make walking around very difficult, already dealing with not good footpaths and open drains and ditches to fall in, avoiding walking into people, and avoiding people who grab you and call you over constantly can make going outside sometimes a very daunting prospect. Sometime in the middle of my stay here there were nights I just stayed at home because I couldn't be bothered dealing with it, but then I got over that fast again.

But now, the AMA, who are like the city council, have been taking on this clearing out exercise to take all illegal tradespeople off the streets and footpaths...When I first heard about it, I thought they were being crazy, and it kinda coincided with Obama's visit, so it was cleaner for him....not that I imagine he walked much of the streets, but even though the tradespeople come back, even when their little makeshift stands have been destroyed, the AMA are actually holding pretty firm and keep moving them on.

So now you can walk along the footpath without worrying about walking into somebody's goods or being asked to buy something every 1sec, but in addition they are keeping people off walking on the roads and grass verges, so there seem to be more hundreds of people to avoid walking into!!

I think it is actually slowly starting to help ease congestion though, but sometimes its an inconvenience.....I always knew where I could buy what as I wa walking along the road, now sometimes its not there when I want it!!

Anyway the point of this story is that in January I went to a meeting in town, where the building was actually 7 flights high, so had a view of the central market and town, but I didn't have my camera at the time.

Today I managed to get back there with my camera, as someone from work was going, but even though I got the view and the photos, the chaos is fully not what it was in January, there lots like there's no traffic, no cars weaving in and out, and the people walking down the stretch of market seem to have space to move, which they never had before.

So I have my photos but not the effect I was hoping for.....

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Work Trip


So last week at work, I knew I had a meeting to go to on a Thursday, which is nothing unusual at all.......but what my work forgot to tell me until Wednesday morning was that the meeting was not actually in Accra, and was at one fo the mining towns, and so we would be flying to Kumasi and going from there, leaving on Wednesday afternoon, so I had 5mins to pack as I was about to head out to another meeting, luckily right by the airport so wouldn't have to deal with traffic!

But apart from the lack of communication, I am very glad I got to travel there. First flying between cities in Ghana means you can fly in the daylight so get a view over the city, all European international flights leave after 6pm so you only see darkness and lights when leaving, so I got a chance to try take some aerial photos.

And also I got the chance to see the mines, instead of just having passed through the outside of the towns as I have before when travelling through that area.

We flew to Kumasi, which is the big city to the north west of Accra, about a 45min flight, and then its an hour drive south to Obuasi, which is a town practically there for the existence of one big mining company, its a gold mine, and all the affliate companies which need to be there to support it.

Then the next day we went on to another mining down further down south. I had driven this road before with my parents when going from Busua to Kumasi, and it was one of the longest journeys take in Ghana for the relatively small amount of distance to be covered. Luckily this time less torrential rain, but the road is still terrible, you're bumping the whole way even in a big 4x4.

But we eventually made it to Tarkwa, which is the other big sized mining town, this one has a lot more companies present, and doesn't have just gold. We were there to work with a managanese company.

And after our work, we got to tour through the mine, which pretty much just means getting in car, driving for a little bit and looking down over a giant hole in the ground which they blow up every so often and take away ore from. Probably more technical than that.....but they just crush the ore to smaller sized pieces and ship it away like that, no chemicals or any treatment actually in Ghana itself.

So after that, was the drive back to Accra, and I even made it in time to go to the dinner reservation I had made before leaving, unaware that I may not be back in time!
But got my nice Japanese stirfry, at one of the nice restaurants in Accra, which thankfully also due to being away and getting extra allowance pay I could easily afford!



The above photos are from the mine site, its a plant that closes its leaves up when you touch it, so top photo is before, and bottom photo is the after, of the same plant.


The mine pit, one fo the many they are currently working in.

In our protective gear
View from above Accra, showing the coast, unfortunately on the wrong side of town to view my house clearly

Last Weekend Trip in Ghana - Back to the Volta Region




So another monkey video, as there were complaints last time from certain people, about my average camera skills, so this time I got someone else to take the video of me!

Anyway, this was back at the monkey sanctuary at Tafi Atome, because I went to the Volta region for my last travelling weekend in Ghana.

I had friends who wanted to see the river/lake, the monkey place was somewhere to stay in the area, and I wanted to go to Amedzofe, which is nearby, the highest village in Ghana.

So set off Saturday morning, about 7am so earlish for us, late for most Ghanaians! But thanks to our number, we filled a tro tro by oursleves and set off to Kpong, which is a village on the Volat River, downstream of the dam. Mian aim was to find someway to get a boat ride/canoe to get out on the water. Unsure how we were going to do this as no one advertises anything here....well at least doesn't advertise anywhere i can see it!

In Kpong, its mainly fishing village, so we wandered around down to the river, which has a ferry wharf, which I think goes to the coast, no idea when or how, but no sign of boats for hire, apart from fisherman asking us to get in with them....

So we took another tro tro to the next town, which is where the road crosses over the Volta river, with an impressive for Ghana, bridge. This place also has hotels along the riverside, so gives a chance to sit, and more potential for water activities.

And we were in luck kind of, found a place with nice river side tables, a mini zoo, and motor boat hire, so we went up and down a bit of the river. But they may benefit from having kayaks or something to hire also....

After the river trip, found another tro tro to get us to the monkey village, again because we could fill it, we negotiated a straight trip to the village, although the driver did try to ask for more money later, because he said we weren't clear about where exactly we were going.....

But arrived, and in time with huge tour bus, which meant our tour through the forest was put off til 6am the next day, but we still wandered around the village while there was daylight left.

So after the monkey's in the morning, it was time to attempt to get out of the village...its only 5km off the main road, but the only transport they had was motortaxis (ie. a motorbike) and with 12 of us, thats quite a few to take. In the end, a couple took the taxi's to find ongoing transport at the main road, and the rest of us walked, which was nice in the early morning as it wasn;t too hot yet, there was no way I could have done that at any time of day over the not rainy season as it would have been far too hot, but temperatures are pretty mild now.

So at the main road, had to again negotiate for a tro tro to take us to Amedzofe, which by map and paper is not far, like 20kms I think, but it would have to I think win the prize for worst road in Ghana on the most barely held together tro tro. The road wasn;t even dirt, wasn't even anything, some rock mostly, ditches and holes everywhere, and the tro tro was held together by twigs I'm sure on the underneath of the car!

And its high, unfortunately clouds restricted some of the views from the top, but I'm sure I could see the lake in the distance.

Once we made it to the village we decided to take the walk to the waterfall, which the guide described as 'a little bit steep' and 'half an hour'.

So started off with nice wide path, and then turned to one section which was actually lined with planted colourful bushes, then......

Its gets very steep, so steep they've actually put in ropes to help you guide yourself down, which was a lot of fun, and even though I was in jandels and a skirt, as log as you could swing yourself down with the rope it was pretty easy, but it took us some time as some people couldn't quite get the hang on the concept of the rope and I think were using it to their disadvantage rather than advantage. But we all made it to the bottom safely.

Coming up was actually very easy, although little sore on the muscles which haven't done much hill work in the past 8 months!

Once back in the village, the same tro tro took us on to the district capital Ho, from where would would get a tro tro back to Accra. And on the way out, the road it a little rough for awhile but then it actually gets amazing, about 4 lanes wide, prefectly flat, each village has space for a bus stop and sign! I have no idea how often people come through this area, but its very nice.

In Ho, got on the cheapest tro tro which could take us all and was about to leave.....but htere is a reason why some tro tros are cheaper......their cars are older and crappier.....and so after travelling at very slow pace, and our driver deciding to overtake on a corner, which he couldn't do as his acceleration was non-existant, he broke the car, pretty much he couldn't go higher than first gear.

So we pulled over, all got out, Ghanaian passengers started yelling at him in Twi, we stood there with not a lot to do...But villages are always close by generally, so there was someone trying to fix the car,,,,so we all got back in, he revved up for about 5mins.....we travelled about 10m....then stoppped again!

Everyone off again, and not likely to get back on! After much wasting time, the driver finally paid off another tro tro driver to take us all in his car the rest of the way back to Accra. There was never any question of not getting back, but they are very slow people in coming to the obvious decision first and fast, so this whole process took maybe an hour...

But we made it, and was an enjoyable weekend.

Photos at link below.

http://picasaweb.google.com/emmajaynedavidson/20090802VoltaRegion#